Living in Berlin with two young boys, it’s easy to forget what silence sounds like. So every now and again we try to head out to the countryside in search of this rare commodity. A friend had recommended a farm-stay guesthouse in Brandenburg, so a couple of weeks ago, we all took some time off midweek, and headed North, to Gut Boltenhof, an hour and a half’s drive out of the city.
Arriving mid-afternoon, we turn into the long driveway, flanked on either side by quaint little outhouses, and a view down to the striking 19th century farmhouse standing proudly at the far end. Gut Boltenhof has been a working farm since the mid 1800’s, producing just enough for the farm and the surrounding village, ensuring self-sufficiency for the local people.
The farm now also doubles as a wonderfully unpretentious guesthouse, with 6 rooms in the main house and 10 apartments in the outlying buildings. We are given the key to Wochenstübe, our cosy 2-bedroom apartment with a kitchen and wood burning stove, about a 3-minute walk from the main house, and are guided there by charming illustrations painted on the outer walls of the farm buildings.
The farm now also doubles as a wonderfully unpretentious guesthouse, with 6 rooms in the main house and 10 apartments in the outlying buildings. We are given the key to Wochenstübe, our cosy 2-bedroom apartment with a kitchen and wood burning stove, about a 3-minute walk from the main house, and are guided there by charming illustrations painted on the outer walls of the farm buildings.
Farmer Stefan has told us feeding time begins at 4pm, so after the boys’ obligatory bounce on the bed, we pull on our wellies and head to the front steps of the main house. Joining us are a couple of young volunteers from the Wwoofer organisation, who are helping out on the farm. It’s already getting dark so Stefan quickly leads us to the geese, squawking and flapping in their field. Our job is to herd them into their barn for the night. Stefan shows the boys how to flap their arms and make themselves wide and big to direct the geese forward. The boys are giggling with excitement as the sea of 170 white geese waddle and screech their way into their barn. “Nighty night, sleep tight geese!” they cry.
Next up are the pigs, rabbits and goats. Our eldest son gets totally involved, shovelling corn, pouring grain and handing out the carrots, while the youngest stands back a little, watching shyly from behind dad’s legs. Lastly, it’s the turn of the horses, ponies and goats, so we need hay, and lots of it. Again, our 5-year-old gets stuck in, hefting huge mounds of hay into the ponies’ and goats’ troughs, much to the amusement of the farmer who sees a walking hay stack, with two wellies sticking out the bottom. Our little one also helps, a handful at a time, “Ponies need their dinner,” he informs me seriously.
“I want to be a farmer!” declares our eldest, “Farmer Stefan, when do you feed them breakfast?”. “8am sharp!” replies Stefan with a smile, and we kiss goodbye to our lie in.
After a good wash, it’s dinnertime, and we enter the warm light of the main house. The boys tuck in to kartoffelpuffer and apple sauce, while we enjoy a delicious broth with farm-reared steak to follow. The house is renovated but not over-styled. Happily, it retains many of its original features, including the old staircase with its wood worn smooth after 150 years of use. The boys are chattering away, delighting in retelling their farm exploits again and again, their cheeks rosy with fresh farm air.
After a good wash, it’s dinnertime, and we enter the warm light of the main house. The boys tuck in to kartoffelpuffer and apple sauce, while we enjoy a delicious broth with farm-reared steak to follow. The house is renovated but not over-styled. Happily, it retains many of its original features, including the old staircase with its wood worn smooth after 150 years of use. The boys are chattering away, delighting in retelling their farm exploits again and again, their cheeks rosy with fresh farm air.
We explore a little more by torchlight after dinner, peering through windows and letting the boys run free. There’s a little playground and a long drop swing tied to a tree near the farmhouse, which prove lots of fun in the dark. Once we have put the boys to bed, we take a bottle of wine and sit outside. It’s not biting cold, so we are fine, wrapped up in our coats, hats and mittens.
And finally, there it is; silence.
While my partner chats with one of the volunteers, I take a little walk around the grounds and stand alone in the darkness, relishing the quietude. Apart from the occasional squawk from a goose or a pony's whinny, the peace is complete. I take a deep breath and smile.
And finally, there it is; silence.
While my partner chats with one of the volunteers, I take a little walk around the grounds and stand alone in the darkness, relishing the quietude. Apart from the occasional squawk from a goose or a pony's whinny, the peace is complete. I take a deep breath and smile.
Our little farmers wake us early the next morning and drag us out of the door. It’s a glorious morning, cold and crisp, with the winter sun still low in the sky and a light frost, making everything sparkle. Even the ponies have a dusting of frost, and they come to us, their noses snuffling our hands for carrots. This time, we herd the geese back into their field, and do the rounds of the other animals, with both boys getting joyfully immersed in the farmyard chores.
After feeding the animals, it’s time to feed ourselves, so we quickly wash our hands, leave our boots at the door and head into the breakfast room where there’s a splendid buffet laid out, full of local meats, cheeses and cereals, plus a delicious farm-pressed apple juice, made by Farmer Stefan himself. After breakfast, the owner, Jan-Uwe Riest and his wife Andrea come to say hello, and check we’ve had a good stay. Having only taken over the house from his parents in 2014 they have many more plans for the farm, but always keeping true to their close-to-nature philosophy and allowing their guests to unwind, relax and slow down in this peaceful place.
We dally as long as we can, as none of us want to leave, but even after staying just one night here, I feel totally refreshed, and ready to face Berlin life again. The boys are still asking if we can go back, so it’s been agreed, but I think we may try it in spring or summer next time, as there is still more to discover, including a lake, a herd of cows and 80 hectares of land to explore. Long, lazy summer days on the farm.. I am looking forward to it already.
Many thanks to Jan-Uwe at http://gutboltenhof.de/ for our stay. We will be back!
We dally as long as we can, as none of us want to leave, but even after staying just one night here, I feel totally refreshed, and ready to face Berlin life again. The boys are still asking if we can go back, so it’s been agreed, but I think we may try it in spring or summer next time, as there is still more to discover, including a lake, a herd of cows and 80 hectares of land to explore. Long, lazy summer days on the farm.. I am looking forward to it already.
Many thanks to Jan-Uwe at http://gutboltenhof.de/ for our stay. We will be back!
