Tempelhof Airport ceased all commercial flights in 2008, but it was never just any old ordinary airport, having been not only a key travel hub, but mass rally ground, concentration camp and armament production factory during the Nazi era, and also a symbol of freedom during the Airlifts of 1948/49. Since being decommissioned, happily this huge field was not massively redeveloped but has become a unique space in the heart of the city for city dwellers to enjoy. You'll find a few kiosks and cafes, allotments, a mini golf course, some sports fields, a circus school and, in recent years, temporary refugee accommodation taking up a small corner, but all these seem minute when seen in the context of this vast space. And it is a wonder to behold.
A project has been created that is specifically aimed at families visiting the park. It's called Lernort Natur and has the aim of encouraging children's curiosity for nature and their own natural environments. Different 'stations' are set up around a large area of the park which focus on the different elements of nature such as water, air, earth. You can find out more about the Lernort Natur project here. You can find out more about the many projects running on the Tempelhofer Feld here (in German).
The rest of the field itself is a place of joyful recreation – kids on bikes, bigger kids on kite-boards, roller bladers, cyclists, picknickers, kite flyers, families, friends and dogs enjoy this immense space. On a sunny day, even with the hundreds of people who descend on Tempelhofer Feld with bbqs and blankets, it never feels overcrowded. It is possible to do tours of the spectacular, listed airport building itself, which is fascinating for older kids with a penchant for planes, and outside, at the Mobilcenter, you can hire miniature motorised cars, hoverboards, go-karts, 4 seater bikes and the like to explore the area.
The prices can be a little steep depending on what you are renting and you will need to bring along some official ID as well as pay a deposit (we paid a €50 deposit when renting a four-person bike) to rent one of their vehicles. You can find more info about the rentals here or go visit the Mobilcenter at the park.
Tempelhofer Feld is often home to kite flyers both amateur and professional as the field of course attracts wind, due to it's open nature, and makes for great kite-flying conditions. Very fun for the kids. Tempelhofer feld has become home to a yearly kite flying festival thanks to it's conducive conditions for the sport. It is also a common site to spot windsurfers using the space to train, plenty of skateboarders and cyclists and others just enjoying a lay down on the grass, sipping a beer.
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One of my favourite things about the park is how varied it's landscape is. From the full length former runways, to the wild grass that you can wander through, to the old railway line slicing across one end. We've visited on many an occasion, alone or with friends and always find something new to intrigue us, be it watching the sporty types, being a sporty type or listening to various buskers plying their trade - it's always fun and a unique part of Berlin that should not be missed, no matter what time of year you're visiting.
Opening times:
January 7:30 am – 5 pm
February 7 am – 6 pm
March 6 am – 7 pm
April 6 am – 8:30 pm
May 6 am - 9:30 pm
Juni 6 am – 10:30 pm
July 6 am – 10:30 pm
August 6 am – 9:30 pm
September 6 am – 8:30 pm
October 7 am – 7 pm
November 7 am – 6 pm
December 7:30 am – 5 pm
The main entrances to the park are on Tempelhofer Damm, Columbiadamm and Oderstraße. Travelling by train, the easiest way is to get off at S Bahn Tempelhof and it's just a couple of minutes walk away.
Public Transport options:
S41, S42, S46, S47 S-Bahn station Tempelhof
U6 U-Bahn station Tempelhof or Paradestraße
Bus 104 to bus stop “Friedhöfe Columbiadamm” or “Golßener Straße”
For ideas of what to do with children in Berlin, check out my 'To Do in Berlin' section.
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